Draped in History: Exploring Tartan's Journey Through Time

When first thinking of Scottish Fashion, our minds often conjure the image of a ‘Jacobite’ type figure, draped in traditional highland dress; a pleated kilt, a linen shirt, a woollen coat, a sporran and perhaps a set of chosen weapons. The bold, checkered patterns—distinct to each Scottish clan—weren’t just about style; they were a statement of identity, pride and unity. Tartan, with its vivid colours and intricate designs rooted in local dyes or significant events, goes far beyond simply being a fabric. There is beauty in that tartan can evoke such heavy emotions. It has become a living symbol of Scottish heritage. 

The Glen Affric tartan (1500-1600AD), discovered in a peat bog in the 1980s

Known to be worn since the third century A.D., the origins of tartan remain a mystery. However, the tartan garment we recognise today dates back to the 16th century, which took the shape of something called the ‘belted plaid’; a vast cut of woollen fabric (usually 4-5 yards long) that would be draped over one shoulder and gathered by a belt around the waist. Traditionally worn as functional, day-to-day attire by Highlanders, the belted plaid soon evolved into the more tailored alternative - the well-known kilt. The kilt soon became associated with Charles Edward Stuart (Bonnie Prince Charlie) and his rebellious Jacobite Army, acquiring a symbolic political status. However, following their final defeat at Culloden in 1746, the traditional Highland Dress was proscribed. With the Highlander now forced into the more European-styled Lowland dress, the link to tartan was wounded. 

Despite the fabric’s battles, the tartan brand prevailed. Becoming less of a ‘threat’ as time went on resulted in the kilt obtaining its current status as a romantic emblem of Scottishness. Today, worn by drunk party goers, loved-up grooms or football fanatics, the tartan kilt remains a staple in the Scottish wardrobe. It gained popularity as a fashion item, shown by the incorporation of the kilt into the everyday looks of women and children. 

The controversy of this bold fabric caught the eye of fashion designers and pop culture influencers in the late 20th century. Tartan is the epitome of Scotland, both affirming the Scottish identity and also playing a role in the contempt and mockery of the country.